I haven’t been out in the water for over a month since my seizer. Things have slowly gotten back to normal over the last week so I decided to at least paddle around on my board with Emily. Everything went well and it was so nice to feel the salt water once again. Emily caught three waves and I got one on my stomach. Special thanks to my awesome wife Emily for all of her caring and support while I was out of commission. Can’t wait to get back in the water again.
When we got to the beach today the waves were cray. No one at the north end, and everyone was just piled up in the middle. We knew there was a swell on tap and were looking forward to it. There were a bunch of shortboards shredding and a bunch of long boarders that were getting creamed. We noticed that boatdocks looked pretty good. We paddled out and there were only about five other surfers there. The waves were awesome. After several days of short ones we finally got some fun long ones. I love it when boatdocks works! Such a fun wave on the right day.
Got in the water at 3:00 pm today. Did I have to work? No. Did I have an important meeting. No. Were the conditions questionable earlier? No. We were just slackers today. Stayed up too late, and slept too late. In a word we were just slackers. At least we were stoked slackers. When we got to the beach the conditions were small but good. Many good rights all the way up and down the beach, and not very crowded. We suited up and found a nice little spot and had a great time. We both caught so many rights – it was awesome. It was a bit colder today than yesterday, but still a very fun surf.
Yes I just said that I had a fun surf at Linda Mar. I’ve been avoiding going out there for a while now. We came back from two weeks of surfing in Hawaii and decided to get back in the water here as soon as possible. It turned out we got an awesome day. It was Emily’s birthday, sunny and warm. The waves were small, but fun size. I was out on my 10.0 glider for the first time, and it was super fun. We both caught more waves than we could count, ate tacos and talked to Rick. Such a fun day! :)
It was kind of gloomy today, but we were off work so we headed to the beach. The waves looked nice and the surf wasn’t too crowded. The middle and the north end were closing down, but the south end looked clean. We both caught several nice rights. I caught one of the few outside waves of the day, turned right went over the reform and kept going right. My best ride of the day. All in all a fun surf day.
After over two weeks of smaller surf a swell finally arrived on the south shore. There were some new surfers out on foam boards, and lots of locals who had been waiting for the swell to arrive. Before we headed out we scanned the horizon and saw breaks we had never seen before after coming here regularly for seven years. Lots of big outside sets with offshore wind. The tide was low and the outside was further out than I had ever seen it. As we got closers to the lineup we could see several local surfers ripping up the lefts. Basically every wave was a left with the south west swell. Went for a few waves and fell off the back. You really had to be in the right spot to catch one. After I figured out where to take off I finally caught one. It was long and fast. I caught a few more and as I was paddling back out I thought I saw a big set on the horizon. I had just made it to the outside when it arrived. Definitely the biggest set I’ve ever seen there. I heard several other surfers say the same thing. I don’t know how big the waves were in that set but they looked double to triple overhead. After about six waves rolled through it eased off. About ten minutes later another big set rolled though. After a few waves I went for one. Had my ass handed to me. I hung out there for a few minutes shooting some gopro video and then paddled back out. I was almost to the outside when another set started coming in. I paddled over the first wave of the set and thought I was going to make it over the next one. Wrong! I landed right on my head pull my board out of my hands and broke my leash. My board disappeared into the fray. As I stared back at the beach from the far outside I said to myself, “it’s going to be one hell of swim in”. I ask a guy in front of me if he saw were my board went and he pointed left. After swimming for 10 or 15 minutes I saw Emily holding my board. I swam over and got it from her. She said that it had hit some guy but he was ok. She later told me how afraid she was when she saw my board float by itself, leash snapped and I was nowhere to be seen. I can imagine how much I would be freaking out it the situation was reversed. Emily decided to stay out a bit longer while I was going to paddle in. I stayed for another 20 minutes shooting video and then sat on the inside until Emily was done. Another crazy fun day at the beach. Stoked. Aloha.
When we got to the break to check it out this morning we ran into world champion Carrisa Moore who was there to judge the Red Bull Party Wave Event. She was a super nice person and talked to us for a while. We took pictures and Emily told her, “keep ripping”. She is Emily’s favorite surfer so it so awesome we got to meet her.
The line up was crazy. There were people at every possible place to catch a wave. Rides consisted of lots of turns and dodges. It was so crowded we paddled over to queens. Emily caught one right away and I got a gopro video of her ride. Then we turned around we saw Carissa paddling to the lineup on a longboard. We caught some wave as did she, although we were not switch stanching like she was. Such a crazy fun day! Aloha.
Got out a bit later today as we wanted to have eggs, rice and pineapple for breakfast. It was crowded as usual for a sunny Saturday, but our spot still had some opening to weave through. I was a bit bummed at the beginning of the sheh as I lost my gopro camera going over a tiny wave. But I was not about to let it ruin my surf so I got over it quickly and kept going. We both caught some fun waves and were out for 90 minutes. Then we found a place with tofu lunch plates and ate them on the beach. Oh yeah we also extended our trip until Tuesday so we still have many days to surf and relax. Aloha!
Today was fun! There seemed to be a lot more waves, but the power just was not there. Sometimes it seemed like you were riding in slow motion. We both got some really nice long rides, but then they would just peter out. There was a crowd when we went out but it dissipated fairly quickly. By the middle of the sesh there was nobody in our spot between the towers. Very fun day. Aloha!
On the way to our surf this morning we saw a kid wearing a tee shirt that said, “I brought the awesome – what did you bring?” That statement set the tone for the surf. There was more power today, but the wave were still a bit inconsistent. We sat in our spot between the two towers and the two crowds of surfers. There was more power and the waves were not jacking up as much as the days before. We both caught some really nice long ones and had a great time. Aloha!