Today was super lumpy, and wind blown at 17 knots. Also, made the mistake of wearing my 4 / 3 and booties for the first time in 3 weeks. Hot and strange. Went out on my new boogie board at first. It sucked. Went back to the car and got my Koa longboard and paddled out. It sucked. Caught 1 wave and came back in. As strange as it seems I’m still glad I went out. :)
We got to the beach right at high tide and the waves were hitting the wall. Emily knew the tide would be coming down in about an hour so we went to look for a 3 / 2 wetsuit for me. Never found a wetsuit, but we got back to the beach right on time and the incoming swell was there and impressive. Once we paddled out the waves were non-stop and the crowd was friendly and not that large. Today was one of my favorite surf sessions ever. Clean, strong and breaking right. I practiced shuffling to the nose of my board and got my front foot all the way to the logo of my Koa. I could really feel the difference in speed. Thanks to Wingnut for the video instruction! What a great surf!!!
Had a surprisingly fun surf today for a sunny, warm Sunday morning. There was at least 100 + surfers in the water today, but somehow Emily and I found a nice little peak north of the pump house. There were only a few other people there and most of them did not know what they were doing. We caught lots of waves both lefts and rights. Super fun day.
This morning turned out to be a really fun surf. We went out in front of the pump house and the waves were breaking both right and left. I did angled take-offs on nearly all of my waves. The wave were pretty much non-stop. Sun day with only a few surfers where we were and breaching whales. So much fun.
Had a nice morning surf at the beach today. The conditions were still a bit lumpy, but it was sunny and uncrowded. Caught a few fun rides myself and Emily was rocking out the rights. They were all very short, but fun. I’ve gotten much better angling with the wave on take off the past few weeks. We saw a seal and a whale today which was an added bonus.
Had a nice surf with Emily this morning. The waves looked pretty good today and there seemed to be a lot of little peelers on the south end. Even boat docks looked pretty fun. We were a bit north of there but still in front of the south lot. We both caught several rights and were having a great time until my last wave. I was going right from the outside and made it to the first reform. Just as I was about to kick out the lip of the reform caught my right rail. Before I had a chance to grab my board or put my hands down I got ejected from my board. I landed hard knee first on a shallow rock. Ouch!!! I limped to the beach and Emily saw me from the outside. I was going in early and unannounced and she saw me limping. She came out to see if I was allright. After about ten minutes I could walk again. A bit scary, but everything was just fine.
From the parking lot the surf conditions looked pretty bad. So bad we almost decided to turn around and go home. Fortunately we stayed and suited up. We went down to the south end and paddled out. The waves looked really lumpy and disorganized, however, there turn out to be some ridable waves out there. We stayed out for about an hour and both caught some fun waves. Also there were only a couple other people out which made it even more enjoyable.
Got to the break a bit late for a Sunday, but Emily’s awesome parking luck held out and we got a beach front spot. Most of the beach looked like a total close out and we almost decided to head back home. We were both so glad we didn’t. We suited up and headed down to boat dock which looked insanely crowded from the main lot. To our surprise there were not that many folks down there. By the time we paddled out there was only 3 or 4 surfers down there. It turned out to be one of the best sessions ever. Only 2 other folks and non-stop lefts. There must have been 150 surfers in the water and everyone missed boat docks. I was so mellow and so fun. What a great surf!!!! :)
It look kind of crappy out as we stared at the waves from our car in the north lot. We didn’t want to waste the morning so we drove down to the south lot to give it a look. To our surprise it looked pretty good with no one at boat docks. We saw grumpy guy in the parking lot and he said it was pretty good out there. So we suited up and headed out. Oh yeah, I was waring my 2 mil shorty for the first time at Pacifica. It turned out to be super fun with non-stop lefts on tap. Had a fun run in with a super cute harbor seal who just keep coming up and looking at me with its big dark eyes. Also, I got to enjoy some fresh sushi for the very first time in my life. There were fish guts everywhere, and as I was paddling over a wave I swallowed a nice big chunk of something fishy tasting. Couldn’t get the taste out of my mouth for hours. It tasted terrible but, Emily and I both got a good laugh out of it. I’m glad we’re both vegetarians. Super fun day.
I haven’t been out in the water for over a month since my seizer. Things have slowly gotten back to normal over the last week so I decided to at least paddle around on my board with Emily. Everything went well and it was so nice to feel the salt water once again. Emily caught three waves and I got one on my stomach. Special thanks to my awesome wife Emily for all of her caring and support while I was out of commission. Can’t wait to get back in the water again.