Surfed Canoes again today with Emily and had another awesome session. Today was the first time we surfed two sessions in one day. The waves were bigger and more consistent which made catching rides much easier. Caught several waves in the first session and then chilled out and re-fueled on the beach which was bonus. Also, saw Santa Claus surfing with his big white beard and santa hat. Turns out santa’s a pretty good surfer.

The second session was also a lot of fun until I got to the beach and discovered my board was wrecked. The water was only a couple of feet over the reef, and at one point when I was watching a set to the left of where we were a wave caught the tip of my board. It shot me up a bit and then it landed tail first on the reef. I did think much of it until I got to the beach and noticed my center fin was gone. Also, the fcs plugs were pulled out and there was a nice ding on the tail all the way down to the foam. Bummer!

Still had a great time though, and am looking forward to tomorrow.

#29 / 12:20 pm
#30 / 2:30 pm

Pre surf food – Vegan chili, brown rice, salad, and a banana almond smoothie. Banana and energy bar at the break.

---