We’ve surfed six days straight so far and every day seems to be better than the last. Today was no exception. The conditions were for the most part flat, however, we both caught three great rides. Also, today totally confirmed I finally found my first magic board. For the second day in a row I caught the first wave I went for.

What I need to work on is timing. There were at least five more waves I should have caught today, but I missed because of bad timing. I seem to be very good at finding the right spot, but my timing is off. That’s what I’ll be working on starting tomorrow.

I’m also feeling much stronger every day. Paddling today was very easy going in and out, and paddling into waves was no problem. Can’t wait to do another warm sunny double session tomorrow.

#33 / 1:20 pm

Pre surf food – Subway vegan patty sub

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