Today was the first day I’ve had to surf alone in several months. Emily was still sick and needed a day out of the water. So she sat in the shade on the beach and ate a vegan burger while I surfed. I missed surfing with her.

As I paddled out I looked at the right where we’ve been going with all of the instructors, beginners, and outriggers, and decided to go left finally. The wave are much bigger and more powerful to the left and the take-off zone is fairly small and crowded. Because this is still part of Canoes there is no line up, so you have to be ready to take off in a crowd.

The break itself was awesome. The water is a bit deeper and there is more sand than reef on this side. I wish I’d tried this break a week ago. I’ll be going back to this spot tomorrow.

#36 / 2:15 pm

Surfline surf report for today – Cool and crisp morning with little or no surf in sight. Most spots have tiny waves in the ankle to shin high range with a few larger sets at places that favor the northeasterly angle. Tradewinds have returned to provide offshore conditions for southern shorelines.

Pre surf food – Tomato sandwich and a banana.

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