As someone still learning to be a real surfer today stands out as the best individual day I’ve ever been on my board. We started out today back at Queens as it looked good from the beach and wasn’t too crowded. I sat on the outside to the left for a while watching the break trying to decide where to go. Queens has a very small take-off zone and every set it moves a little left or right. I tried for one and fell off the back and then I ran into Emily. She said she noticed it kept looking good to the right so I paddled over to the far right. As soon as I got there as set started to come in. The first wave was so big it almost flipped me over backwards, even though I was pushing down on the front of my board. When I came down I saw another on coming in so I spun my board around and started to paddle. Within two or three strokes I was in the wave. For a split second I felt like I was going so fast that I couldn’t stand up. But, almost immediately I popped up and was surfing the best wave I’ve ever ridden. As soon as I stood up I realized I was going faster than ever before. My board actually felt like it was vibrating up and down while going forward. I was also going right as the wave sort of pushes you that way. I was standing up all the way from the outside to the inside until the wave finally petered out. I paddled back out and ran into Emily and we sat out for another 45 minutes with no meaningful sets. So we paddled back in to refuel and relax for a few minutes.

After a quick lunch of vegan chili and brown rice we headed back out. We sat in the middle for a few minutes and decided to head over to the crowd at Canoes as the break looked better than Queens. As soon as I finished the long paddle out I set up in a spot that looked good. A few minutes later I caught my first wave and continued to catch them until I finally ran out of calories an hour and a half later. All in all the best day I surfed so far.

Also Emily surfed for the third time while still sick. The good news is she’s getting better every day. Yeah!

#37 / 11:30 am
#38 / 3:30 pm

Surfline surf report for today – Cool and crisp morning with very small to near flat ocean conditions. Most spots have tiny waves in the ankle to shin high range with a few larger sets at places that grab the northeasterly wrap. Tradewinds are decreasing to more light levels which will continue to provide offshore conditions for southern shorelines.

Pre surf food – Cliff bar, french fries and a banana.

---