If you surf long enough we all have a day like I had today. When we got up the swell was going off so we ate and headed for the beach. We paddled out in the channel between Queens and Canoes and sat up on our boards trying to decide which side to go to. As expected Queens looked much better and less crowded. Against my better judgement we headed for Queens. We knew when the break was firing it was for experienced locals only. I got the first wave I went for and it was even faster and more of a drop than the first ride I got there. I actually had to hang on to my board on my stomach until I made the drop and then stood up. I was happy with that but decide to head back out for more. That was my big mistake of the day.

Apparently, I lined up in the wrong spot and proceeded to drop in on two locals in a row. I backed of the wave both times and missed them both. However, on their paddle back out they both spoke to me and warned me to not drop in at this break as the waves are big and powerful and someone could get hurt. I said I was sorry both times and they were very nice about it. The second guy said I might want to move over to Canoes if I was still learning which I did. If the same thing had happened in Nor Cal there might have been some confrontation, however the locals gave me a break which I appreciated. I should not of been there on a day like today. To these two unknown surfers I have to say a big thanks for being cool about the whole thing.

As soon as I got over to Canoes I caught another awesome wave within a few minutes. I stood up, made the drop and out of no where two beginners were right in front of me. Before I could try to turn I ran right over both of their boards. No one, or their boards got hurt but again I felt like shit even though the ride was awesome.

I hope not to have another day like today for sometime to come. I need to be more careful and stick to breaks I’m more comfortable on.

BTW Emily caught an awesome outside ride at Queens today and rode it all the way to the break wall. Sweet!

#41 / 12:10 pm

Surfline surf report for today – Christmas has come a little early for townies as an out of season south is providing fun surf for southern shores this morning. Most locations have small scale but fun wave heights in the knee to waist high range with chest high sets at standout locations. The Kilo Nalu buoy is reading 3 feet @ 14 seconds…so watch for this SSW swell to hold steady throughout the day. Crisp/cool morning with light winds providing perfect offshore conditions for southern shorelines today along with beautiful sunny weather. Will Santa be sprinkling in some west wrap from the biggest WNW of the season tomorrow?

Pre surf food – A sub.

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