As we drove down to LM today we figured the break and beach would be packed as it was a sunny weekend day. As it turned out there were very few surfers in the water. This was probably due to the low tide and mostly closeout conditions. We came to get wet so we suited up and headed out.

The paddle to the outside was fairly easy today. The sandbars seem very different than they were. One minute the water is chest high and if you take a few steps it can be knee deep. Anyway, I sat there for a few minutes and the first set came in. I passed on the first two waves and then went for the third. I caught a fairly nice ride from the outside to the beach and then headed right back out. Within a few minutes I caught another ride just like the first. I was coming into the beach and was about to lay back down on my board when I heard a strange thud sound. I started to paddle back out and something felt strange. I thought maybe I dinged my board so I hoped off to check it out. As I flipped my board over I saw my beloved Island Design fin was missing. Fortunately, the break-away saved my fin box. At that point I caught one in on my stomach and the session was over. It’s too bad as I was having an awesome time in the tiny waves.

Next time I’ll stick a spare fin in the car incase this happens again. Still had a great time.

#49 / 3:20 pm

Surfline PM regional overview: Clean, workable chest-head high waves on tap this afternoon. Wind is light offshore under sunny skies. Look for the dropping tide to drain things out later this afternoon.

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