Had another awesome day trying to learn how to ride a short board. The question you may be asking yourself is probably, “why is Max trying to learn how to ride a short board rather than becoming a more proficient surfer on a long board?” Well, I have a long history of learning outdoor activities at a level that I’m not really ready for. My goals with most outdoor activities are task based. With surfing I really want to get to the lip and do tricks. For me it was the same with diving, whitewater kayaking and mountaineering. I always like to start out with the gear I need to accomplish the task or skill I eventually want to learn.

The long board was awesome, however, no matter how hard I tried I could never do the things I wanted to do. This is why I’m trying the short board out now. I would rather learn now on the board I want to get to rather than learn one board and switch. Call me nuts if you want to, but this technique has worked in the past in many other outdoor sports.

Anyway today was awesome. My tracking while paddling the board was better today, and sitting on, and turning my board into the wave have improved since yesterday. I got close to standing up on a few waves today, however, I never made it all the way to my feet. Maybe I’ll try Queens in the next few days for some more consistent wave power.

Aloha

#56 / #14 – 2010 / 3:30 pm

2-2.5ft @ 15secs. (Magic Seaweed). Light east-northeast winds with a slight chop. Small long period swell from the south. REGIONAL SUMMARY: Mirror image of yesterday with combo SSE and steady trade swell providing small but rippable surf for southern shores this morning. Most locations have waves in the knee to waist high range with some larger chest high sets mainly at channel entrances. The Kilo Nalu buoy is reading 3.8 feet @ 14.8 seconds…so there is still SSE swell providing action today. Moderate trades are blowing to provide typical offshore conditions in town and rough sideshore bump for southeast exposures.

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