Had two great surf sessions today on the shortboard. BTW, whether it’s sunny, warm, cloudy or raining the weather is awesome in Hawaii.

As far as getting to my feet – I was only there for a second, but I did it three times! I haven’t figured out whether it’s my balance, or my position on the board, but today I did find where to catch the wave on the SB.

I noticed a Japanese dude on a SB and decided to hang back and watch him for a while. He was hanging in the middle instead of the outside and kept catching wave after wave. I paddled into a position about 8 meters to his left and decided to go for every wave he did. While I didn’t get a real ride I did catch five waves in no time. I got two awesome stomach rides, and got to my feet three times. Tomorrow I will know where to line up to catch the wave.

Now I need to figure out why I can’t seem to maintain the ride. I don’t look at my feet when I pop up, however, I can feel my back foot hitting the traction pad and my front foot landing on the board. The first time I just lost my balance. The next two time I fell of the back of the wave. I’ll keep working on standing up and riding tomorrow.

Anyway, I’m glad I’m learning the SB on vacation, and in warm water, as I’m getting multiple sessions per day, and a lot of water time. Maybe I can go to Queens tomorrow when it’s less crowded, and get an extra power boost from the wave. That might be all I need to get a real ride at this point.

#58 and #59 / #17 – 2010 / 12:00 pm and 4:00 pm

2 ft. Light east winds with a slight chop. Small long period swell from the south-southwest. REGIONAL SUMMARY: Combo small scale SSW swell and continued trade swell keeping rideable action for southern shorelines today. Most locations have waves in the knee to waist high range with some larger chest high sets mainly at channel entrances. The Kilo Nalu buoy is reading 3 feet @ 14 seconds…so there is some small SSW swell producing surf today.

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