Had another excellent double surf sesh with Emily at Canoes today. Also, I went out on the shortboard for both sessions which was awesome. After several days paddling the SB is no problem. I’m still not quite as fast as Emily on her 9.0, but I’m keeping up a bit more every day. Duck diving is pretty good. I can get my nose down easily, however, I’m still getting use to getting my knee or foot on the back of the board to pop back up. I’m not having any issues with wave selection or my take off spot – I seem to be catching the wave just fine. So, the big question is why can’t I catch a long ride?

On the first sesh today I lined up next to some other surfers on shortboards to watch and learn. I noticed that most of them that were catching waves had a much wider stance than me when they popped up. After that I caught two waves where again I got to my feet, but only for a second. Also, caught an awesome stomach ride. At that point the surf got a bit mushy as high tide was on us.

After we had a break and some food we headed back out. I got to my feet for a second a few more times, and then I got one where I was up for two or three seconds. This doesn’t sound like much, but for the first time I felt I was riding a wave on a SB for more than one second. Very fun!

Tomorrow I’m going to the outside break first thing in the morning to see if the extra power helps the ride.

#60 and #61 / #19 – 2010 / 2:00 pm and 5:00 pm

2 ft. @ 16 seconds. Light east winds with a slight chop. Small long period swell from the south-southwest. REGIONAL SUMMARY: Looks like town may have actually bumped up just a tad from yesterday. Nothing real big but we are seeing a combo small scale SSE swell and continued trade swell keeping rideable action for southern shorelines today. Most locations have waves in the knee to waist high range with some larger chest high sets mainly at channel entrances. The Kilo Nalu buoy is reading 2.8 feet @ 12.1 seconds…so there is some small SSW swell producing surf today

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