I guess you know when you’re getting hooked when 72 hours of not surfing feels like an eternity. Having not surfed since Sunday I can tell you I’m hooked. We must start getting up earlier so we can surf every day possible. Emily and I both started to feel a little strange and detached after 3 days.

Anyway today was awesome! The surf conditions were fairly good when we got there. Some nice rights and several shortboarders ripping it. We headed down the beach south a bit to keep practicing on the new boards.

My progress on the shortboard is slow, however, I feel like I’m making progress every day. My problem today was getting my hands off the board when I pop up. I need to make my pop up faster. That’s the goal for the next week. I did catch one short but nice ride from the outside in the whitewater today.

#74 / #32 for 2010 3:00 pm

Regional Summary: 2-3 ft Light and variable west-northwest winds with smooth seas. Small short period wind waves from the west-northwest. 2ft @ 10s from WNW. REGIONAL SUMMARY: WNW swell-mix and SSW(195-205) groundswell ease through the day. Most spots see chest-shoulder-head high surf, as standout breaks pull in a few overhead sets. Winds are light/variable onshore keeping conditions lightly textured as the tide drains out to a negative low just before 9am

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