We haven’t surfed in two days and really needed to get out today. The problem was we slept a bit too late and I had an afternoon root canal scheduled and work afterwards. What did all this mean to our surf session? 20 minutes to surf and 80 minutes of driving to HMB. Also, we arrived at dead-on low tide and the surf was maybe a foot. You know what? It was still worth it.

I still managed to get to my feet a few times on the shortboard for some short, but fun rides. I’m finding I can ride the new board on very small waves. This seems strange for a 6.8, but it’s working.

#76 / #34 for 2010 1:00 pm
Regional Summary: A small, sloppy mix of old/fading NW windswell and trace SW-SSW swell continues this morning. Most breaks have knee-waist high+ surf, with standout NW exposures pulling in a few sets up to chest/shoulder high at times. Conditions are still looking fairly jumbled across the region this morning with steady onshore flow out of the W/WNW.

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