We had a sunny day at the Jetty with lots of good vibes in the lineup. The sets were coming in at about 10 minute intervals and the rights were going off so we finally decided to head down to the north end. Wow, what a difference a few hundred yards can make.

Emily sat on her board for a while, and then caught an awesome wave and landed a great drop! Then she rode it all the way to the beach. Stoked!

I stood up a few times in the wash and then decided to try a right. I tried to spot where the wave was breaking and lined myself up. A few minutes later I was in a perfect spot and paddled into the wave at an angle to the right. I caught the wave popped up and rode it for a few seconds going right. I’ve never felt that on my feet before and it just made me want more. That didn’t happen today, but I won’t forget that awesome feeling of riding a real right anytime soon. I still have a stoke smile 6 hours later.

#79 / #37 for 2010 3:45 pm

Regional Summary: A crumbly, jumbled mix of mainly sloppy NW windswell and small S/SSW swell is on tap this morning. Surf for better breaks is in the waist-chest-head high zone, with standout exposures pulling in some overhead sets. Winds are steady out of the NW putting a good amount of texture/chop to the surface at most exposed breaks. There are some ride-able corners to be found, they’re just under a decent amount of surface chop.

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