As I was having tea this morning I twittered, “Should I start work this fine Monday morning or go surfing? Hum…”. My first response was from a trusted nor cal surfing friend which said, “Do you really have to ask?! :-) It’s big, be careful out there.” Afterwords, I checked my other nor cal surf friend and another also said at the end of their twitter post, “Be safe out there.” I knew it was going to be a bit bigger than my comfort limit today, but as usual I didn’t really care and we headed out.

As we pulled into the parking lot at LM we could see that the predicted swell had started filling in. We got suited up and headed to the beach to take a closer look.

We started chatting with some dude on our way to the south end who was just coming out. The first thing he said was, “It’s filling in and pitching hard. I almost broke my board on my last ride. Be careful out there.”

OK, this was starting to get to me. I’ve been pitched on HH to OH waves before so why did this bother me. Honestly, I don’t know. But it did. I ended up getting no rides on a good day. I guess when fear creeps into your head for any reason you just need to be able to rationalize what’s happening at the moment. At that moment there were bunches of clean rides on the outside. I just needed to paddle out and go for one. Well, I guess you surf and you learn.

Regional Overview: Solid WNW groundswell continues this afternoon with small SW swell mixing in underneath it. Lots of easily head to double overhead surf out there with standout NW breaks seeing some larger sets on top of that. Winds are pretty light as well with mostly clean conditions. Full on high tide right about now is slowing many breaks down a bit so look for improvement once that drops out through the afternoon. Overall it looks like a good day to go get some waves somewhere.

#90 / #48 for 2010 11:30 am

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