The swell was small today with long waits between sets. As a local told us – long waits mean bad surf on the South Shore. I still caught two really nice waves today. The first was shortly after we made it to the outside. As I got to the middle there was a surf instructor and a student right in front of me. I made a nice left turn around them, and the instructor yelled out, “nice job brah!”

The next one was right at the end of the session as I was paddling in. I caught it somewhere in the middle, and it was a solid right. Again, there was a surf instructor and a student right in front of me. I made a hard left turn and started going left. A few seconds later a student on a 14 foot hardboard was heading right towards me. He came in fast from my blind side, and I had just enough time to start to lean down and push his board away. His board went right under my hand and over my right foot. It hurt like hell, but when I thought about it later – it saved my board! Thanks foot for saving my new Bruce Jones board.

The most awesome thing about today was realizing that I can really ride waves properly and turn. Perfect day!

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