Generally, I don’t measure an epic day by the size of the waves, but more by the shape, and consistency. By those standards today was truly epic. When we first got out to the beach with our boards the waves looked a bit smallish. Also, there were only three other surfers out. At Seal Beach this is unusual.

There was a family of three out with M & M – a father and two sons from Utah. Except Joe, all of the other regulars were missing. Bruce had been by earlier and passed. It would have been even more fun if he was there. He’s an awesome dude!

Emily and I caught more quality waves in one day than ever before. Right, lefts, s-curves, cut-backs – it was all happening today. We even got to touch the wave a few times. Our friend, the giant sea lion even showed up in the lineup for a while – maybe to say goodbye. What a perfect day!

Saying goodbye to the Saint was tough today, because it was such an awesome week. I learned more about how to surf in a week than I thought was possible before I left. I met all my goals, and exceeded them. Great instruction, conditions and friends. We’re both so stoked right now!

We both hope to be back to M & M and Seal Beach soon! :)

#135 / #41 for 2011 9:00 am

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