Knee Rides
today was an awesome day! for the first time i got up to my knees several times on my shortboard. we got to linda mar at high tide and the set waves were hh to oh. i stayed by the river and emily went down to boat docks to try to catch some real waves. we were out for about two hours and both survived and had a great time. emily caught one nice hh ride, and i caught more stomach rides than i could count. putting on the wetsuit and getting out in the water is really helping my recovery, both physically and mentally. great day! :)
#146 / #52 for 2011 2:00 pm
Cleared to Have More Fun
my physical therapist cleared me to doggy paddle on tuesday, and we were on it today! paddled out on my shortboard and caught some quality stomach rides at linda mar. emily continued her recovery and caught two nice rides at the south end. we both had so much fun!!! i’m still smiling. :)
#145 / #51 for 2011 12:30 pm
Merry Stokemas
in the spirit of the holidays emily and I headed down to the beach to have some fun and get wet. we planed it for low tide and had nearly perfect flat conditions at the south end. A few sets came in now and then, and emily caught her first two rides in over six weeks! It was so awesome to see her surfing again!!!
I took my shortboard today as it is much easier to carry. It’s also a stomach ride catching machine. I caught two nice ones today. getting the wetsuit on is still tricky, but it’s getting easier every day. all in all we had lots of fun, and are super stoked right now. :)
Back in the Water!!!!!!
today was my first day back in the water since I visited dr. dave over six weeks ago. i still can’t surf or really paddle, but i was cleared by him to put on my wetsuit and sit in the flats. he’s also a daily oceanbeach surfer and feels that being in the ocean for a surfer can help heal the body and the mind. my physical therapist is also a surfer so i’ve had great advice through my down period.
after surfing on my injuries for a month, i finally start getting treated six weeks ago. after two mri’s and multiple visits to various health care professionals my final diagnosis was that i received multiple injuries on that dreaded overhead day in seal beach. These included, strains in 3 of 4 rotator cuff muscles, damaged a/c joint, flared out …