Awesome Swell in Capitola
It was bigger than I expected today, but I decided to go out anyway. I guess you can’t learn if you don’t try. Emily and I saw outside sets that were 8 – 12 feet at 16 seconds plus. This was the biggest surf I’ve ever paddled out in. The set waves went from the wharf to the end of the cove, so you had to wait to head out until there was a lull. I finally got to my feet on the 7.3, however, they were just heavy white water sections.
I went in and rested for a few minutes and then headed back out. I got my timing right and made it to the front of the outside. I lined up for one and didn’t make it. Emily later told me, “if you had been a few feet to the right you would have made it”.
Tomorrow I’m heading straight for the outside. I want to catch one!
#208 / #8 for 2013 2:00 pm