Best Shortboard Ride Yet
When Emily and I did our first surf check this morning there was still 4.5 feet of tide, and the waves were breaking right on the first reef. They were big, pitching and strong. As we sat there we were actually worried for some of the newish looking foamy riders. One guy looked like if he caught one of these waves he would have landed right on the second jetty rocks. He finally moved over a bit, so we could relax. We were looking for a bit less water, so we went back home, ate some food, and headed back over to the break.
As we headed back over to the break we could see it breaking on the outside. We both got excited. We got suited up and paddled out. I missed the first wave I paddled for. Then I saw one coming right at me. As I took my last look at it over my left shoulder – it was breaking right next to me. I gave a couple of strokes and it caught me. I pushed my arms down to make sure I was on it and then popped up fast and turned right. I was on it and finally caught the best shortboard wave I had ever been on. As a giant bonus as I looked up Emily was on the same wave going right. We ended at almost the same time. Awesome!
And that’s the tale of my longest shortboard ride to date.
Thank to @emilychang, Capitola, the 3 to 4 swell, the 16 second period, all the stoked kids in the line-up, and the awesome weather!
I’M SO STOKED RIGHT NOW!
#212 / #12 for 2013 2:30 pm