Linda Mar was cold, windy, grey and the surf was a jumbled mess, but I’m so stoked right now. Today was the first day in many months where I had no clavicle or shoulder pain during a surf session. Woot!

With the road to recovery looking like the end is near – I’m looking forward to spending a lot more time in the water. Thanks to my wife Emily for hanging in there with me and keeping me stoked through this strange period in my life.

See you in the water! :)

#149 / #3 for 2012 2:00 pm

After many months I finally gathered up the strength and the nerve to try out my 10.0 noserider today. We had the perfect conditions at Linda Mar. It was 2 to 3 feet with a gentle offshore wind. While it sounds counter intuitive my 10.0 is always easier to paddle because of its size and weight.

As we headed out Emily went to the outside, and I stayed behind to catch a few reforms which was awesome. After a while I decided to make my first attempt to paddle to the outside. After some struggle with my shoulder I finally made it out. Woot! Just as I got out Emily said, “welcome to the outside again”. I was smiling ear to ear. Funny how such a simple task can make you feel so good. After that my shoulder and clavicle …

It may have only been in the whitewater on a reform, but it was one of the most awesome rides I’ve ever had. After healing from my injuries for a little over two months I’m back in the water. I got three little reforms which felt great. I’m still not 100% by any means, but I can start to re-learn how to surf again. It’s amazing how much I lost in such a short time. My popup was slow and awkward, and I still can’t paddle properly, but it will all come with time.

Glad to be back! :)

#147 / #1 for 2012 2:00 pm

today was an awesome day! for the first time i got up to my knees several times on my shortboard. we got to linda mar at high tide and the set waves were hh to oh. i stayed by the river and emily went down to boat docks to try to catch some real waves. we were out for about two hours and both survived and had a great time. emily caught one nice hh ride, and i caught more stomach rides than i could count. putting on the wetsuit and getting out in the water is really helping my recovery, both physically and mentally. great day! :)

#146 / #52 for 2011 2:00 pm

my physical therapist cleared me to doggy paddle on tuesday, and we were on it today! paddled out on my shortboard and caught some quality stomach rides at linda mar. emily continued her recovery and caught two nice rides at the south end. we both had so much fun!!! i’m still smiling. :)

#145 / #51 for 2011 12:30 pm