We stayed up a little too late last night, and got woken up by an employee fire drill a little too early this morning. We were a bit out of it when we hit the water, but as usual we woke up as soon as we got on our boards. It was a little colder today as it was a bit overcast an breezy, but still very warm by Nor Cal standards. The water felt warmer than the air

Surf conditions were fairly flat, but as usual at Canoes if you wait long enough a set or two will always come through. In fact we waited so long for the first set that my bum hurt from sitting on my board. After surfing every day for a week now my paddling strength is going up every day. I can now …

We’ve surfed six days straight so far and every day seems to be better than the last. Today was no exception. The conditions were for the most part flat, however, we both caught three great rides. Also, today totally confirmed I finally found my first magic board. For the second day in a row I caught the first wave I went for.

What I need to work on is timing. There were at least five more waves I should have caught today, but I missed because of bad timing. I seem to be very good at finding the right spot, but my timing is off. That’s what I’ll be working on starting tomorrow.

I’m also feeling much stronger every day. Paddling today was very easy going in and out, and paddling into waves was no problem. Can’t wait to do another warm …

Today was the most awesome surf session in Hawaii so far! My new board is perfect. In fact, it may be my first magical board. It paddles smoothly, and I caught the first wave I tried for. The waves were rather small and few and far between today, but the stand-outs were awesome. Emily and I both caught waves today which was bonus. It was also sunny and water was warm. When you’re from Nor Cal you really can’t ask for anything else. Stoked!

Had another warm sunny surf session at Canoes today. Since I wrecked my Superfish the day before I had to surf on my back-up board. The board is awesome, however, it’s meant for someone the size of Emily. I’ve never really felt stable on this board which is why I bought the Superfish. On the North Shore you can get a board repaired in 24 hours, but on the South Shore it was going to take 5 days to a week to fix it. So, I went out on my back-up board.

I didn’t catch any waves all day, but I got in a lot of paddling practice. The outside break is a long paddle from the beach and I did that several times. Definitely getting stronger every day.

The big event of the day was that I bought a new board. …

Surfed Canoes again today with Emily and had another awesome session. Today was the first time we surfed two sessions in one day. The waves were bigger and more consistent which made catching rides much easier. Caught several waves in the first session and then chilled out and re-fueled on the beach which was bonus. Also, saw Santa Claus surfing with his big white beard and santa hat. Turns out santa’s a pretty good surfer.

Today I had an awesome surf session with Emily on Oahu’s South Shore. It was much less crowded, and the waves were a bit bigger. While they were not much bigger the extra size and consistency made all the difference. I also used my 8.0 Superfish which seemed much more stable than my 9.1 performance longboard. The 9.1 is more narrow and thinner than the Superfish. The extra stability really helped on the small waves.

As far as the surfing goes – I caught 5 waves total with one being a really long one. This was much better than an average day in Linda Mar where if I catch 1 or 2 waves I consider it a good day. This day really put the stoke smile back on my face, and 5 hours later I’m still smiling.

Going to try for 2 …

Had a great first day surfing in Oahu with Emily today. The break was jammed packed with beginners, and the swell was only a little over a foot in height, but the water was warm! This was the first time I haven’t surfed with a wetsuit in months, and it gave me a great cense of freedom.