If you surf long enough we all have a day like I had today. When we got up the swell was going off so we ate and headed for the beach. We paddled out in the channel between Queens and Canoes and sat up on our boards trying to decide which side to go to. As expected Queens looked much better and less crowded. Against my better judgement we headed for Queens. We knew when the break was firing it was for experienced locals only. I got the first wave I went for and it was even faster and more of a drop than the first ride I got there. I actually had to hang on to my board on my stomach until I made the drop and then stood up. I was happy with that but decide to head …

As someone still learning to be a real surfer today stands out as the best individual day I’ve ever been on my board. We started out today back at Queens as it looked good from the beach and wasn’t too crowded. I sat on the outside to the left for a while watching the break trying to decide where to go. Queens has a very small take-off zone and every set it moves a little left or right. I tried for one and fell off the back and then I ran into Emily. She said she noticed it kept looking good to the right so I paddled over to the far right. As soon as I got there as set started to come in. The first wave was so big it almost flipped me over backwards, even though I was …

The big news today is that the break I thought was Canoes yesterday was actually Queens. Emily and I surfed Queens together today which was awesome. When we got here several surfers told us Queens was a locals only break which is very territorial. We found out today from the guy at Koa Board Sports that the break we surfed this morning was in-fact Queens and it’s not that territorial when the swell is not that large. This was awesome news as Queens is a much better break than Canoes for all of the reasons I stated yesterday.

The other awesome news today is Emily was back on her board after only one sick day! We extended our trip today for an extra three days since she’s been sick so she’ll get all her surf time in. Woot!

I tried out my …